Hi, Sharon here. It’s very clean here. There are men in uniforms and white gloves sweeping and wiping down planters and sidewalks. Oddly, there are no trashcans anywhere. If you have something to throw away you just carry it until you can find one (and then the complex sorting of recyclables begins). We get back to the hotel at the end of the day loaded down with empty bottles and other trash. The sidewalks are crowded with people walking, people on bikes and delivery people pushing carts. I haven’t been jostled once. Somehow everybody manages to scoot around each other. Here’s a picture of one of the subway exits with loads of people coming home from work. When people get on the trains they pop open their cell phones (to quietly interact with them, no conversations at all) or instantly fall asleep.
In the morning we went to a large temple in Asakusa. It’s very touristy and that includes Japanese tourists from all over Japan. They were all very excited to be there and there was much picture taking. There’s a giant market with all kinds of goods. There aren’t that many Western/European tourists in general.
The only encounter we’ve had with an American though was really special. She came up to us while were looking at a map (about 20% of our days are spent looking at maps — Chris stops to study every single one). She was in her sixties and needed some general directions. Turned out she was from Georgia, had lived in Atlanta for 30 years, had moved from Augusta to Arizona. She had the gentle Georgia drawl though and we spotted it immediately. She’s in Tokyo for six months undergoing an alternative therapy for breast cancer. She’s here alone (her husband is in Arizona), has had recurrent BC since 1997 and has never had chemo or radiation. We talked for long time and she’s very ingrained in the Atlanta art/teaching scene. She has a friend who is having her baby at Piedmont Hospital and I’ll try to find her when I return.
We walked from there over to the river boat to take a boat ride down to Odaiba. We rode on this bizarre river boat which looks like the boat from 20,000 Leagues (that’s the “Rainbow Bridge” in the background). The boat went down the Sumida River, which is the most central of several rivers that course lazily through Tokyo. We got to see the back of the Tsukiji fish market, where the boats pull up and unload their catch, I guess. Another cruise available was the “Happy Dog Cruise”, where once again unsuspecting dogs are sequestered to be petted and admired by the pet-starved Japanese. The boat’s destination was Odaiba, which is a manmade island in Tokyo bay built up with underattended entertainment destinations and corporate high rises. Think city planners run amok.
I have to say, I’m pretty obsessed with the concept of people craving the interaction with animals. It’s so charming and sad all at once. Thankfully, Chris allowed himself to be dragged to yet another cat demo store there [Chris adds: when I can’t stand it anymore, I just go sit outside and continue reading my book about Buddhism; a great contrast, methinks]. It’s called Cats Livin’ and it’s like a little house with rooms, like the living room, the bathroom and the kitchen that the cats wander around in, trying to avoid the people who have paid to come pet and play with them.
This picture was taken right before my only (so far) injury: rope burn from the leash when the cat leapt down.
There was also the Sega Joypolis which is a gigantic game center (which we avoided), a gigantic Toyota carporn showroom, and the world’s biggest Ferris wheel (so they claim, true only if you cover your ears starting in 1999). Here we are in a car waaaaay up.
Last night we ate in another alley area, again with tiny seating about 5-6 per restaurant. We had yakatori – grilled chicken, pork, bell pepper, leek, garlic and beer and sake.
Simmer down, you crazy people, Harajuku is coming Sunday. Note to Mark and Lisa: the gashepon are crazy good and the meatballs are HOT.